Apples, Part Four

This series on growing apples ends where apple-growing begins—with the planting of trees.  Always good to end on an upbeat note (fresh start!), especially after the previous post on . . . pests!

When it comes to planting the apple trees you’ve selected (see earlier post on varieties and sizes), there’s good news:  Apple trees don’t have unreasonable soil requirements.  You’ll probably need to amend your planting holes with compost, and a soil test (free through King Conservation District) will tell you what other amendments to add.  After that, only routine soil care is needed.

That care comes mainly in the form of maintaining a healthy layer of duff—decaying organic matter on the soil surface, which feeds soil invertebrates and surface fungi.  As they feed, these healthy soil organisms break down organic matter to produce nutrients for trees.

The simplest way to create this duff is to mulch the trees.  (Mulching has the added benefit of retaining moisture for trees to absorb easily.)  Avoid mulching with woody material like bark mulch or arborist’s chips.  These can harbor pests like coddling moth.  Better mulches include composted manure, herbaceous plant stems and leaves, or even grass clippings.  However you mulch, watch out that you’re not creating nesting places for critters, such as voles and mice, that might harm the tree.

At the very least, you should keep grass from growing under your trees, since grass is a notorious competitor for water and nutrients.

The best time to plant your trees is in the fall, preferably after they have gone dormant and the rains have returned.  But nursery stock may not be plentiful at that time of year, posing a dilemma.  If that’s your situation, go ahead and buy your trees in the spring when there are lots to choose from, but leave them potted over the summer, watering them regularly.  If you’re feeling energetic, heal in the potted trees—that is, bury the pots temporarily in the ground.  Then, in the fall, take the trees from their pots and plant them in their permanent location.

Finally, two pleas related to apple trees.

First, consider planting an apple orchard, not just a tree or two.  If you’ve got space, five or so apple trees make for a manageable home orchard.  Given how relatively easy the care for apple trees turns out to be, along with how relatively long they live, why not go (moderately) big?  Planting an orchard rather than a tree or two also helps you commit to your place—a good thing.  The result can be a recognizable outdoor space where you can eventually sit or picnic.  Guests often seem drawn to a home orchard.

The second—seemingly paradoxical—plea?  Tear out any existing orchard you can’t maintain.  Untended orchards can become disease vectors, making fruit-growing difficult for your neighbors.  Besides, nothing seems more forlorn than an abandoned orchard.

Tom Amorose

Tom is a board member and forest stewardship aficionado. He serves on the Land Trust’s Stewardship, Farm, Conservation, and Executive Committees.

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USDA Hardiness Zone “Upgrade”

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Apples, Part Three